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Post by tubbs on Mar 10, 2011 7:23:28 GMT -6
hey guys, as long as i have been around cars and models, you would think i would know the answer to this....
bondo or model putty...
my lightning build will take a lot of mudding. i have parts laying arounf that i have used model putty on and it shrunk, warping the parts (anyone have an extra rat pack hood?).
looking for suggestions, pro and cons please. i have never worked with automotive bondo on kits. i know they sell small tubes, and 2 part stuff. your suggestions please.
(i hope this wasn't covered in another post, i didn't even look)
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Post by duane on Mar 10, 2011 12:16:03 GMT -6
Tubbs,
i don't know how much filler you'll need,
but you can take some MEK and plastic
shavings and mix them in a small glass
jar with a screw-on lid. wait for the plastic
to dissolve, and use. or, you can pile a bit
of shavings on your bench and add a few
drops of glue on top and use it as filler. i've
tried the second approach, and for me, it was
faster and easier. i hope this helps ya!
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dragnut51
Junior Dragster Champion
Posts: 487
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Post by dragnut51 on Mar 10, 2011 14:41:23 GMT -6
I still use the old school way get some testors clear glue in bottle and put a couple plastic trees in the bottle. Wait till it is like milky than use.
John Pol
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Post by 1320wayne on Mar 10, 2011 15:50:26 GMT -6
With all of the bodywork that I do when making masters for pro mod bodies I have found that when there is a lot of filling to be done nothing beats the automotive filler as it sets up faster and there is much less shrinkage later on. That's just me though.
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Post by bdjupp on Mar 10, 2011 19:23:56 GMT -6
When I need some strength where I'm filling I like to use the MEK method. Just beware that it is some nasty stuff! Use it with lots of ventilation. I know that should not be a problem as we all have large airy and well ventilated work areas. LOL! My wife refers to my area in the basement as the Model Cave.
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Post by another rick on Mar 10, 2011 20:28:17 GMT -6
If I need strength on a joint I will use acrylic fingernail filler (available from beauty supply stores, Wally-world, etc.) the only downside is that it is HARD to sand; but it does not shrink and holds up in the purple pond. Once dry (and it is workable within ten minutes) it is stronger than the plastic around it. For small jobs I use Tamiya white putty. HTH.
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Post by duane on Mar 11, 2011 17:09:14 GMT -6
heeey Rick !!!! when you buy this stuff...do the women look at ya kinda funny  ?...ROTFLMFAO !!!!! |
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Post by another rick on Mar 12, 2011 7:24:37 GMT -6
heeey Rick !!!! when you buy this stuff...do the women look at ya kinda funny ?...ROTFLMFAO !!!!! Nah, I spend a lot of time in the fingernail section looking at the files, emery boards, and nail polish colors.  Most of them just ignore me. ;D |
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Post by duane on Mar 12, 2011 14:25:33 GMT -6
i knew that's why you were there !!!!
i was just ribbin ya my friend...lol !!!!
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Post by tubbs on Mar 24, 2011 10:29:26 GMT -6
thanks for all the replies fellas.
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david
Junior Dragster Champion
Posts: 302
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Post by david on Mar 7, 2018 16:38:53 GMT -6
A lot depends on what and where it is on a model build. For structural things I use slow set Super Glue and micro-balloons. In a pinch, baking soda will also work. The Super Glue means just that, tough as nails and hard as a rock. The micro-balloons (or baking soda) dumped on it after it's applied allows for it to sand much easier because of the little "balls" that are embedded in the Super Glue. I use little, if any, putty on my builds by using this method but when I do, it'll be some light coats of Squadron White putty. It seems to dry pretty fast, sands easily, and has never shrunk on me yet. If you must fill in deep areas with it, use several thin layers and it'll work fine.
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?...ROTFLMFAO !!!!!
Most of them just ignore me. ;D