|
Primer
Jan 27, 2016 16:37:43 GMT -6
Post by rockinwillie on Jan 27, 2016 16:37:43 GMT -6
What brand primer you guys usin' ? The new krylon sucks!!
|
|
|
Primer
Jan 27, 2016 17:48:11 GMT -6
Post by another rick on Jan 27, 2016 17:48:11 GMT -6
I am pretty much stuck on Duplicolor white, grey, and grey primer-sealer. I buy mine at O'Reilly's.
|
|
|
Primer
Jan 27, 2016 23:37:24 GMT -6
Post by Thumb on Jan 27, 2016 23:37:24 GMT -6
|
|
|
Primer
Jan 28, 2016 11:12:33 GMT -6
Post by 41chevy on Jan 28, 2016 11:12:33 GMT -6
Special parts get Tamiya white but everything else gets Krylon Grey, Red/Brown or Black primer from WalMart. Top coats of lacquer, enamels and Acrylics go on with no problems.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Primer
Feb 20, 2018 12:56:13 GMT -6
Post by Deleted on Feb 20, 2018 12:56:13 GMT -6
Hey, Paul. I was just looking over some of the older threads on this board to see how many are still worth keeping. Ran across this one and it really caught my attention.
So regular old Krylon primer works for lacquers? That has me real curious to know for sure. I'm planning on using nothing but lacquer for my spray painting. The cost of a can of Krylon and the size of it compared to the cost and size of a can of Tamiya makes this very interesting. You've never had a problem using Krylon under lacquer?
|
|
|
Primer
Feb 20, 2018 19:47:51 GMT -6
Post by 41chevy on Feb 20, 2018 19:47:51 GMT -6
Hey, Paul. I was just looking over some of the older threads on this board to see how many are still worth keeping. Ran across this one and it really caught my attention. So regular old Krylon primer works for lacquers? That has me real curious to know for sure. I'm planning on using nothing but lacquer for my spray painting. The cost of a can of Krylon and the size of it compared to the cost and size of a can of Tamiya makes this very interesting. You've never had a problem using Krylon under lacquer? Not yet. I shoot a light coat and let it dry an hour, than a regular wet coat. Dry a full day and wet sand with 400 and than 600. Both lacquer and enamel go on fine.I shoot 90% in lacquer. Just make sure it's Krylon Color-Max. Resin I use Dupli-color Etching Primer. Some very special cars I do use Tamiya Fine White as it is the only good white primer available.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Primer
Feb 20, 2018 22:16:22 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by Deleted on Feb 20, 2018 22:16:22 GMT -6
Yeah, I have a can of Tamiya white. Also have light and dark gray. I'll have to look into the Krylon thing.
|
|
david
Junior Dragster Champion
Posts: 302
|
Post by david on Mar 7, 2018 15:52:06 GMT -6
It is on the expensive side but I stick with Tamiya Fine Surface primer in gray and white. If I am going with white I will shoot gray first because the white just doesn't have the coverage qualities. In essence, the white adheres to primer better than it does to styrene. Any metallic will get a silver or gold base and in all things paint, if you think you don't have enough paint, stop! Many light coats is fine, and less or more. You can still retain all of the details even with gray, then white, then a base (if necessary) and color coats but ONLY if you measure yourself with each shooting. Patience is the hardest modeling skill to learn (I know, I keep learning that the hard way!) No matter how many wonderful techniques and tips you add to your arsenal, patience will be your best friend when it comes to model building. That's why I build several at a time in order to keep building while one of the others is doing exactly what it should be doing at the moment- nothing!
|
|
|
Post by 41chevy on Mar 7, 2018 16:14:23 GMT -6
It is on the expensive side but I stick with Tamiya Fine Surface primer in gray and white. If I am going with white I will shoot gray first because the white just doesn't have the coverage qualities. In essence, the white adheres to primer better than it does to styrene. Any metallic will get a silver or gold base and in all things paint, if you think you don't have enough paint, stop! Many light coats is fine, and less or more. You can still retain all of the details even with gray, then white, then a base (if necessary) and color coats but ONLY if you measure yourself with each shooting. Patience is the hardest modeling skill to learn (I know, I keep learning that the hard way!) No matter how many wonderful techniques and tips you add to your arsenal, patience will be your best friend when it comes to model building. That's why I build several at a time in order to keep building while one of the others is doing exactly what it should be doing at the moment- nothing! Funny I generally use white under metallics because in the one to one world white base refracts the light back to the metallics to give them depth, never tried silver or gold. Reds,oranges and yellows I base coat with black or very dark grey. It makes the red, orange, yellows brighter.Like David says be patient to a fault and if you pick up some dust or find sanding scratches, resist the urge to put more paint on. Wait and send them out and than go on to finishing your paint. Paul
|
|
david
Junior Dragster Champion
Posts: 302
|
Post by david on Mar 7, 2018 16:20:56 GMT -6
I will try white under some metallic as what you said makes perfect sense. I also must admit that I tend to paint very light so I might be allowing a hint of the silver or gold to show through the color. Still, I like what you said about the white. The balance of your post is spot-on and I could not agree more! Good advice Paul!
|
|
|
Primer
May 1, 2018 14:18:29 GMT -6
Post by biggary on May 1, 2018 14:18:29 GMT -6
At this point in my experience, I've only used enamels, but all I've ever used is WalMart $1 a can primer. I've yet to try it under lacquer as yet, but I've used it a long time for everything.
|
|