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Post by 41chevy on May 8, 2018 20:49:29 GMT -6
Just part of getting older I'm afraid NO!!!!!I REFUSE TO AGE ANY MORE!!!!
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david
Junior Dragster Champion
Posts: 302
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Post by david on May 8, 2018 21:57:52 GMT -6
This is really looking terrific Stevie! I am liking this car more every time I see it!
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stevielewis
Junior Dragster Champion
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Post by stevielewis on May 9, 2018 1:15:35 GMT -6
Thanks guys. I really do appreciate the comments.
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stevielewis
Junior Dragster Champion
Is that....?! What I think that is....?
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Post by stevielewis on May 11, 2018 19:39:57 GMT -6
Ok, got the spark plug wires installed. Here's a couple of pics... Should get some more work done tomorrow after work.
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david
Junior Dragster Champion
Posts: 302
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Post by david on May 11, 2018 19:55:09 GMT -6
Really neat a crisp work on those wires Stevie! Does that motor come back out for painting and detail work on the frame and interior work?
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stevielewis
Junior Dragster Champion
Is that....?! What I think that is....?
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Post by stevielewis on May 12, 2018 1:33:50 GMT -6
it does, david. I purposely didn't glue it in yet.
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david
Junior Dragster Champion
Posts: 302
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Post by david on May 12, 2018 9:14:13 GMT -6
Smart dude! If it didn't, I was going to PM you about maybe pinning these things or using tik-tak or some other variant in the future in order to disassemble for painting, etc. Obviously no need as you are way out in front of this cool build!!
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stevielewis
Junior Dragster Champion
Is that....?! What I think that is....?
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Post by stevielewis on May 12, 2018 17:23:31 GMT -6
I did some more work on this build today. I added the blower belt and the headers to the engine. I had to adjust the engine mounts on the frame a tiny bit to get the engine to "sit" on the mounts on all four corners. It's starting to look like a drag race car with the body on the chassis... I'm going to have to find a better fuel pump. The one included with the kit seems way to tiny, and I can't route any fuel lines to it as the blower belt would be in the way. Any suggestions from you guys will be appreciated. Thanks.
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david
Junior Dragster Champion
Posts: 302
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Post by david on May 12, 2018 22:20:41 GMT -6
That thing is really starting to look sharp Stevie! With the body sitting on it, it ALREADY looks fast!! Terrific!!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 12, 2018 22:25:28 GMT -6
I'm thinking the same way, David. I wasn't so sure about the whole VW thing as an Altered, but as it's coming together I'm liking it more and more.
I'm going to go back and read the thread again, but have you said what the plan is for paint, Stevie? If you did I'll find it in a couple of minutes. If not, how about filling us in?
EDIT: OK. Unless I just flat missed it, I don't think you've discussed the paint plan. What are you thinking?
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stevielewis
Junior Dragster Champion
Is that....?! What I think that is....?
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Post by stevielewis on May 13, 2018 1:55:13 GMT -6
Thanks, David and Steve. I've only had one mention of paint color choice in the thread so far and I even mentioned I didn't know what that color was going to be. The few builds I of this model I have seen online have been Green or Black or, White, as the "box top" depiction has, which is of course, fictitious. So I have a large spectrum of colors to choose from yet. I'm also trying to come up with a name to call this, as well as what "sponsor decals" I might add. There's a lot to think about yet for this. Thanks for asking.
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stevielewis
Junior Dragster Champion
Is that....?! What I think that is....?
Posts: 341
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Post by stevielewis on May 15, 2018 5:04:40 GMT -6
I received in the mail yesterday a set of three Molotow Liquid Chrome pens with 1mm, 2mm, 4mm tips. I don't know if any of you have these but they are great for fixing chrome plated parts or painting a part chrome that wasn't plated. I've used the 1mm tip pen for fixing chrome scars on my build. I'll post some pics later today. Oh, btw, I got these on eBay for $32.00 as a set. They can be bought individually as well. Also from eBay, one jar of Model Master Enamel Clear Top Coat and one jar of Model Master Enamel High Gloss Clear. These two clear coats have been suggested for use for "gluing" small and tiny parts. Say you have an engine block painted and need to add a small part but don't want to scratch or mar the paint. Instead of using styrene glue or epoxy or Super Glue, add a tiny amount of the Clear Top Coat to the part and let the clear coat dry. Once dry, the part is attached without messing up your paint job. I'm going to try this method when I get to installing the steering parts to my build.
Update: I went through more of my boxes that I have here at my apartment and found several model kits I had thought I not packed away for storage several years ago. One of the kits I have is a junkyard model I bought on eBay that was a partial build. It's a Revell Charger Funny Car that had no decals but a coupon for some Slixx decals. Anyways, I looked through the sprue trees and found the fuel pump that has all the inlet and outlet junctions molded to it. Since the fuel pump for the Winged Express kit isn't much more than a short rod with a flange on the top, I scraped the chrome off the top, sanded the top flat, removed the outlet line junction from the FC pump, drilled a hole for an outlet line to go to the fuel block on the Crower injector, and drilled a hole for the inlet line from the fuel tank, and glued the two parts together to make a more realistic fuel pump. I'll get a picture of that and post as well.
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david
Junior Dragster Champion
Posts: 302
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Post by david on May 15, 2018 11:33:20 GMT -6
The chrome pens have their place but at their cost, silver on a toothpick or even a silver Sharpie seems to work just as well for me. If it's a larger area or some part I have either stripped or wish to chrome, Alclad over gloss black is what I do.
A word of caution on the enamel clear. It depends on what paint you used on the various parts and if they are enamel then you still run a risk of marring something as the enamel clear may want to haze out the enamel you are attaching your part to. Plain old Testors Window Maker and Clear Parts Cement works really well for these applications. I use that for gluing little chrome door handles or gas caps or other similar things to a paint finished car. And you can always simply use Future to create a clear barrier coat between parts and paint. Cheap and very effective. And as always, round toothpicks are your friend!
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stevielewis
Junior Dragster Champion
Is that....?! What I think that is....?
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Post by stevielewis on May 15, 2018 15:54:24 GMT -6
Thanks for your advice on the chrome pens and the clear enamel top coat. I'm looking for convenience with the pens. I have tried the toothpick and paint method and didn't have great luck with it. I probably used the wrong kind of toothpicks. I don't know. I do have the Testors Window Maker and Clear Parts Cement. I'll have to get it out to see if it still is useable. I have found that a lot of my paints and glues didn't make it through the 2.5 years of storage back in Michigan.
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david
Junior Dragster Champion
Posts: 302
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Post by david on May 15, 2018 16:25:54 GMT -6
Store the M-Pens upright and shake them really well before using. Get some "juice" flowing from the tip onto a paper towel or something and then just let it flow (carefully) onto your subject. I am glad you are taking this as a discussion about things that might be helpful instead of me trying to tell you what to do. I wouldn't do that! I just know that about 99% of what I've learned in building models I learned by trial and error WHILE building models! If I had a failure and I can offer something that may help someone else from having the same failure as I did, I will give it a whirl! So thanks for not getting bent Stevie. I am no expert by any means and I sure have goofed a bunch of things up along the way!
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